Olivia Maselli

The University of Adelaide, Australia
Exchange to the University of Tokyo, Japan

Tokyo is a city of extremes. It is probably best epitomised by a photo I have taken of a Japanese woman shuffling down the street in full traditional dress; bright floral kimono, impeccably groomed bundle of hair, split toe socks and sandals. Rising up all around her into the pollution grey sky are the glass and steel skyscrapers of Shinjuku, the centre of government in Tokyo. It is this preservation of tradition that prevents the urban society from collapsing into a tempest of dissolute, 24 hour, working machines.

When I landed in Japan I was instantaneously illiterate. Knowing no Japanese at all wasn’t an easily concept to deal with at first, but luckily this was Tokyo, with vending machines out numbering people 20:1, at least I wouldn’t go thirsty. I could even order a meal through the ticket machine at the front of the noodle bar. I would choose the dish that looked the nicest and hand the ticket over to the waitress with a mute smile and nod. Three weeks in to my stay though, I am now being to decipher some words and even some text, though my confidence with speaking has yet to blossom.

Catching the train at peak hour is a fantastic experience every time. Walking through Shinjuku station (along with over 2 million other people that day) any slip in concentration and the crowds could sweep you in the wrong direction. You could end up for example at Akihabara, Electric City were it is not unusual to see women dressed as Little Bo Peep being followed by an entourage of flashing cameras. For some people everyday is Fancy-Dress Day in Akihabara. When the train finally arrives, a long two minute wait, the faces of those inside can barely be seen through the fogged glass. Many are asleep standing up, the density of the crowd inside preventing them from falling over. Others just stand in quiet repose, social politeness preventing the use of mobile phones and basically any other form of noise. In most people’s opinion this train is already overloaded, but not to the Tokyoites. New passengers board the train by backing themselves in, a gentle shove backwards encourages the sea of black business suits to compress a little more and six more people get on, the doors close and everyone relaxes back to their position pressed against the glass – arms held defensively across their chest to prevent asphyxiation. Before the ‘all clear’ signal is given so that the train can depart, the conductors walk along the platform and stuff any protruding limbs back into the carriage.

The complete antithesis of Tokyo’s 24 hr `neon jungles` are the rows of cherry blossom trees, the quiet tea houses and of course the majestic Mount Fuji. A stroll through a Japanese garden, where the only sound is that of water trickly from a fountain, makes you forget that you are living in one of the world’s Mega Cities. There are over 5,600 people per square kilometre in Tokyo and still it is easy to find a place of calm amongst the chaos. It is Japan’s strict adherence to tradition and their love of nature that makes this ‘City of Extremes’ fantastically unique.

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